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John Lyman Photos

October 2014


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*Updated surfing forecast for Huntington Beach*

New WNW-NW swell moves in fast on Sunday

Forecast Overview

Look for wave heights to build in quickly at the WNW-NW facing beaches on Sunday. A new round of energy starts to arrive later tonight and will fill in even more as we move through the day. Conditions look decent…could end up being a pretty fun surf day.

The Swell

A cold front, fresh out of the Gulf of Alaska, pushed into our swell window on Friday-Saturday morning, and will be sending a new round of WNW-NW swell (280-300) that will be showing in the morning on Sunday and then continue to build through the day and eventually peak Sunday night into Monday morning. There will be some leftover NW energy, mostly windswell, as well as some background SSW-SW swell (200-220) that will add few extra waves to the better combo spots.

The Surf

The focus of the swell is going to shift around on Sunday…sort of reflecting the cold front’s passage through our swell window. We can expect most of the spots with some of the (280-300) exposure to do well through the morning, but I do think the swell will shift more to the NW as we head into the afternoon, so some spots might start to weaken while the peak of the energy is still arriving. Anyway, in terms of sizes, plan on the average exposed WNW-NW facing spots to see surf in the chest-head high range. The standout NW facing breaks and the excellent NW/SW combo breaks will have surf in the shoulder-overhead range with some sets going a couple of feet overhead on the better parts of the afternoon tide swing.

The Weather

With the cold front slipping by later on Saturday night it actually looks like Sunday will see high pressure settle in and help clean up the conditions. It will still be cool along the beach but we can expect a mix of N-NE winds around 3-5 knots for the morning…with the stronger gusts showing around Ventura, Santa Barbara, and North LA. OC and SD will have calmer winds with some areas staying basically light/variable. The winds will shift onshore in the afternoon and push in out of the W around 10-14 knots.

The Skinny

Sunday looks like it is going get lucky in terms of swell and conditions. The storm that sent the swell is weakening fast as it impacts the Central Coast and will move just enough air around that it sets up the cleaner morning winds. While the tides aren’t totally idea (we are still pushing 5’+ around 10:30am)…it isn’t completely bogging down the dawn patrol…so if you can find a less tide sensitive spot you should be able to pull out some bigger faster waves through the morning (at the exposed spots of course). Overall it looks like the WNW-NW facing points and reefs will offer the best mix of size and shape…the beach breaks will be fun too but they are still pretty tide sensitive so there may be less to ride through mid-morning. Happy hunting…keep an eye on those early morning winds.

Check out the complete long range surfing forecast at


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September 30, 2014 * H.B. Pier

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