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May 2018

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The Surf & Weather Forecast for

Southern California

May 18, 2018



The easing SSW from earlier in the week and SW that built up over the last couple of days continues to bring some fun surf to southerly exposures.  There’s a little wind swell in the water as well.  The swell will linger through the weekend.  Monday we’re expecting the next solid pulse of southern hemi from the SSW (195-205) that could bring decent surf through much of the week  Read more for details.

Get the live Southern California Buoy Forecast graph here -

Surfwise we’re expecting for most southerly exposures at least that surf should continue running knee to chest high+ through the weekend.  There will be some wind swell bringing smaller surf to westerly exposures.  A low pressure system is supposed to move through later in the weekend that could pick up the wind swell a little bit through the start of the week, but the main focus is going to be on new swell moving up from the South Pacific.

This new SSW (195-205) is from a fairly well focused storm that moved NE towards the Pitcairn Islands earlier this week.  At its peak it was able to generate 35-40 foot seas.  A couple days later the storm stalled south of the Pitcairns, and restrengthened a little bit.  That’s going to help with the longevity of the swell which’s forerunners should start arriving early Monday, building steadily through the day.  The surf will build into the chest to overhead+ range late Tuesday, with some standouts and magnets seeing larger sets even.  The peak of the swell should hold through Thursday before it starts easing Friday.

Here’s what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:

Thursday the 17th WNW-NW windswell peaks late. Wave heights expected to be waist to chest high+ keep an eye on the winds

Friday the 18th swell mix holds in the waist to chest high+ range early.  Eddy winds possible.  Surf starts to ease late in the day.

Saturday the 19th surf backs off into the knee to chest high range

Sunday the 20th smaller knee to waist high+ surf.

Monday the 21st southern hemi builds through the day. Surf should be running waist to head high+ at standout southerly exposures

Tuesday the 22nd southern hemi builds to a peak late.  Standouts could be seeing chest to overhead high+ surf.  Winds expected to be breezy in the afternoon.

Wednesday the 23rd southern hemi holds its peak with surf running chest to overhead+ at standout southerly exposures


Tropical Overview

Nothing in the tropics


North Pacific Swell Forecast

North Pacific Swell Forecast is looking quieter for the time being

South Pacific Swell Forecast

Long range forecast shows the Tasman Sea getting hit by a rather powerful storm early to mid-next week.

Right now the fetch looks like it could generate only 25 to 30 foot seas, but it has a decent angle for sending swell to California.  This is a slightly better situation for Central California, but should still send some energy to Socal for the first couple days of June.  A bit too early to call with confidence but more details on Monday.

Next long-range forecast expected for Monday the 21st..  

Austin Gendron
Surf Forecaster























































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April 23, 2018 * Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica

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April 20, 2018 * Afternoon Session * Avellanas, Costa Rica

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